New years, Christmas and New Years!

Typo? No I had two new years celebrations, one for the Islamic new year in early December, and one on Jan 1st.

Islamic New years I was forewarned in a vague sort of way that I would need to meet the family at the front of the compound bright and early in the morning.

The time was not specified so as per Tobaski I was ready then nothing happened, then I was called when not ready. I went to the front of the compound sat down with the rest of the family and waited, every Ceesay in the village was there it seemed to me, but that can't be the case as there were less than a hundred there, so maybe 3 compounds worth.


It was pretty cold too, so we huddled together a bit to ward off the pre 8am chill, (might even have been below 20C but I doubt it) and eventually things got moving.

There was some praying, then sharing of gifts, which was sweets, nuts, and a flour/ sugar mix thing you kneed with your hand and take bites of...

When this was finished we all went back inside the compound, hung around a bit to chat and headed back to our respective houses/ chores etc. At some point later on in the day there was more food, and I sat with the family as I do several times a week to eat with them.
The food bowl is experience is not for everyone, but as I am particular not to get a very small child sitting next to me (who have poorer than normal hygiene standards), me using a spoon and others using there hands is fine.

Fatoumata and Aja-Bintou Ceesay

The whole crowd for New years.

Nyimansata  Ceesay , ?, and Madjula Ceesay

Jenaba Ceesay and Aja-Bintou Ceesay

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Lissa Dampha and Fanding (Step dad)  - Lissa is Fandings 1st wife (I think)

Christmas

I went down to Senegambia for Christmas, and stayed in a posh hotel - The Kololi Beach Club, it is dead expensive normally (£980 a week for a twin bedroom apartment with sofa bed in lounge), but I was there as a member of my parent's vacation club, so only had to pay for the utilities - £56 which worked out as £62 as I paid in dalasi (D2800). Though how they work that out I have no Idea, I pay D400 a month for electric in my compound (I'm on a meter), and this was for a week. Water bills come to approx D100 a month (though I don't pay that) so lets say D125 is my weekly energy cost, so D2800 is just a little bit of an exorbitant overcharge!

It was absolutely lovely to have a warm shower, I did this within an hour of arrival... and it took me about 45 minutes to get my apartment key!

The hotel was luxurious, but they had a strange policy on guests, my terms and conditions stated I could have guests up to the occupancy of the building, that is 4 people. Yet when I attempted to show my apartment to two of my VSO friends, I as told they needed to sign in at reception and get guest passes. So we just turned round and went back to a cafe.

The next day two of my Gambian family came to visit me, I took them to reception to get their guest passes, and was told they were not allowed in! I was allowed to take them to restaurant but no further! I was right narked, but didn't want to make a scene with them present. I asked for the manager even so, but he/she was not available and when I insisted they called someone who confirmed I could not take people past the restaurant.

I gave up and took my family to the restaurant for a soft drink.They were a little shocked at the food prices!
They liked the beach, though Nyimasata is scared of the sea!

Senegambia is very different to the rest of Gambia, and to some extent typifies the worst of The Gambia.
Bumpsters travel in packs (well not really, but you get several in a row), everyone wants your money, and everything is expensive. The police try their best  keep the bumpsters and others under control, but there is too much money in the area.

That said, as soon as people got to know that I could speak some Mandinka, I was greeted left right and centre.
I made lots of new friends, of note were a few Mandinkas from Baddibu (the area of the Gambia I live in), including Mariama a pub greeter from one of the many bars on the strip, and Mariama Jallow from the Police checkpoint,and Mariama Camara one of the maids at the hotel.  (It seems Mariamas and I get on well or something.)

While most of the strip is expensive for the Gambia, you can still get food for under £6, and beer for under a£1, or even about 60p in some bars.
It does have one cafe worth mentioning - Gaia art cafe, a little bit of heaven on the edge of the main tourist area, it makes it's own cakes, including some drop dead gorgeous cheesecakes, and some great drink, my favourite being a ginger cooler. :)

I did a bit of shopping wile there to, but maybe I should have thought how much weight I had before buying more. I estimated I carried 25-30kg in my holdall, 15kg in my backpack, 10kg in my laptop bag, and two 1.5L bottles of water in a plastic bag, making 53-58kg total, a fair pile fora journey in taxi to the port, 200 yds walk to the ferry, hanging around in the cage with hundreds of others, and fighting my way onboard, then a 300yds walk the other side to the gelli park and getting a set pass (an estate car converted to a 10 seater taxi - extra row of seats in the back), finally a 500yd walk to my house from the main road. I was plum tuckered out let me tell you.

I gave out most of my gifts within a hour or two, and took it easy for the rest of the day, thank you Mam, Dad, Dafydd and Emily for sending most of the gifts.

New years was a bit anti climatic, Nathan from the peace corps as too tired to do anything, and no one in Kerewan celebrates New Years, so stayed up on my own till midnight, phoned home, sang Blwyddyn Newydd Dda to my parents and failed to get hold of my brother for more of the same.

Chritmas day in Fajara, view from outside the church.

Bizzare find on a shelf in a local store in Senegambia

Nyimansata and Mariama Sibou Ceesay at my hotel.

Mariama Jallow at the local police check point.

Slightly overdue Tobaski update

I said a few weeks back that I would devote an update of its own to Tobaski (Eid_al-Adha).

This is a festival held roughly 2 months after Ramadan ends, and is the big thing in The Gambia, people head for their home villages across the country, travel chaos ensues and many places of work get very quiet or shut down completely.

For me it was a confusing jumble of events, not made any easier by partial and misleading guidance by various people around me.

I was under the impression that I should get up and get dressed in my best new African clothes, go to the mosque, slaughter some rams, eat lots of meat freshly roasted, sing, dance and give out sweets.

It was sorta like this, just not on the timetable i was expecting and not necessarily in that order.

I got up bright and early and made my breakfast (porridge oats, and a cup of earl grey), did the regular morning ablutions and got dressed in my best clothes, only to find when opening the door everyone else was dressed as normal...

So I changed back, went to get water, and twiddled my thumbs for a while, some time later someone came to say aren't I going to the mosque? So I changed quickly and headed to the gate to find lots of people waiting for me...

I had fallen victim to the misconception that everyone would be going to the mosque together... alas all the women / girls on the compound have work to do so would meet up at the mosque later, hence not getting dressed up yet.

So I walked to the mosque and was assigned to the care of Alieu from Bata kunda (a ~11 year old who speaks reasonable English), while the men went to the inside of the mosque, Alieu, the other boys and myself sat down outside on a plethora of prayer mats set-up just for this purpose.

Looking back at the vast crowd who arrived at the mosque after we did.

This is Alieu my guide for the visit.

After some time, the older men came outside, and sat in the front, and some time later ladies started to come into the back of the mosque compound, where they sat away from the men. One or two little girls sat with their fathers, but otherwise segregation was as normal for here.

The service itself was very quick (10-15 mins maybe) though I'd been at the mosque at least an hour and a half by this point, and so we walked home. I I hung around outside my house for a while expecting things to happen, and seeing not a lot happening, went back inside to sit down.

After a short while I got called to say people were waiting on me and they wanted to kill the rams.
Luckily I was still in best clothes so managed to get out of helping on this task (most of the men had changed clothes as the rams were inconsiderate in where they sprayed their blood while getting their throats cut and in their death throes).

One Ram trying to resist his fate

Rams dead, I sat down with the family, only slightly queasy from the spectacle I had just witnessed. I thought I'd hang around for a while in case I was caught out again, but for now it was just time for chatting. Soon the rams were cut up and people drifted away, I headed back to my house again. Fairly soon I was offered a big plate of freshly roasted liver and kidney, I quite like kidney and love liver, but there is only so much I can have as a pre dinner snack, 3/4 kg is a bit much... :)

So after my 'little' snack I waited around and was soon rewarded with a big pile (~2kg) of meat, for me to cook myself.

Nothing seemed to be happening for some time, so I settled down in my chair and waited to be called again. time went past, and I decided to go to the loo, so obviously this was when I was called as everyone was waiting for me... going to the loo  is not the fastest thing when using a pit latrine so a short while later I emerged to find people unhappy with me as they were waiting on me to start eating...

After some confusion and disagreement, I moved to join a nearby food bowl and ate lots of food, as per usual once finished I then had to eat from another food bowl, and eventually from a third! The eating over I returned to my house to contemplate eating way too much.

No sooner did I sit down and relax, just after I changed into my 2nd nice African outfit as pre warned to do, than I was summoned to the door, it was the start of 'salibo' a tradition similar to trick or treat where hordes of children go door to door asking for money/ sweets etc. I soon exhausted my small trove of sweets (I had bought extra for this occasion), so after I gave out about 60 sweets I starting  telling children 'minti a banta, fo saama' or sweets finished till tomorrow. Then I started giving out pens, though again I didn't have enough so it was 'peno a banta' this time.  (Salibo I had been advised was for two days, so I had to keep some things back for the 2nd day.)

Some of the Ceesay family

Vicky and Lucy

Safiatou Dampha and little Mama Ceesay

Mariama Ceesay, Mbassi Dampha, Jelica Ceesay, Awa Ceesay,  Sainabou Ceesay

Fatamatou Ceesay and Fatima Ceesay

This salibo business continued well into the night, and I still had little children at my door after 10pm plaintively calling 'Salaam Alekum' ('peace be upon you', the traditional greeting when meeting people or calling at their door) to which I ignored, and kept the lights off. :)

There was alas no signing or dancing (that I saw at least) and other than eating and chatting it seemed to be a bit anti-climatic.

Next year I will be better prepared!